A savoy cabbage in a field bed, its green leaves deeply crinkled

IngredientsVegetables

Wirsingsavoy cabbage

Brassica oleracea var. sabauda. The same species as white cabbage, but with wavy, blistered leaves and a looser head.

Because it sits loose, it cooks faster and tastes milder. It goes into creamed savoy, into stuffed cabbage rolls and into stews. It is no good for sauerkraut, which needs firm white cabbage.

In Mexikoin Mexico

It is called col rizada and turns up only now and then. City Market carries it occasionally, the ordinary mercado mostly not.

Mind the name: in Mexico col rizada is also used for kale. Savoy forms a head, kale does not. Look at the head, not only at the sign.

Ersatzwhat to use

White cabbage works. It needs longer in the pot and tastes coarser, but the dish still comes out right.

With white cabbage, cut finer and add five to ten minutes of cooking. For rolls, dip the leaves in boiling water for a few seconds or they crack as you roll them.

Kaufenbuying

Pick a head that feels heavy for its size with the outer leaves lying tight. Yellow edges mean old.

The dark outer leaves carry the most flavour. Keep them, just cut out the hard rib.