IngredientsSaltEasy to get wrong
Speck, durchwachsen geräuchertstreaky smoked bacon
What is meant is pork belly with layers of fat and lean meat, cured in salt and then cold smoked. Not sugared, not precooked, not sliced.
In the kitchen it is not a topping but a foundation. The cubes go into a cold pan, render their fat over medium heat, and the cooking continues in that fat. That is how fried potatoes, Bayrisch Kraut, lentils, Grünkohl, Speckknödel and the sauce for Rouladen begin.
In Mexikoin Mexico
Ask for tocino en trozo, meaning a whole piece rather than slices. The carnicería and the larger supermarkets keep it behind the counter.
At the mercado smoked panza de cerdo works too. Two things matter: uncut, and with clear streaks of meat running through the fat.
Ersatzwhat to use
A piece of unsmoked belly will do at a pinch. The smoke is then missing, and chipotle will not bring it back, it brings heat along with it.
A little smoked paprika at the end of the rendering points in the right direction without pulling the dish towards Mexico. Use it sparingly or everything tastes of it.
Vorsichtwatch out
Packaged thin sliced tocino is heavily sugared. The sugar caramelises and burns long before the fat has rendered. The pan turns bitter and the fat is lost.
The slices are also too thin to cut cubes from. If slices are all you can get, stack them, cut thick strips across, fry them very slowly and pour off the first, sweet fat.