IngredientsSpices
Liebstöckellovage
Levisticum officinale, a celery relative. The plant grows shoulder high and the leaf is glossy and deeply cut.
It seasons stocks, stews, soups and beef broth. The note is celery leaf, several times louder.
Maggikrautthe Maggi herb
The smell matches Maggi seasoning so closely that Germans name the plant after it.
The reverse is not true: the seasoning contains no lovage. The likeness is in the aroma, not in the recipe.
In Mexikoin Mexico
It is called levístico and fresh bunches are not sold.
Seed is on Mercado Libre. The plant is perennial and comes back every year; one clump keeps a kitchen going for years.
Ersatzwhat to use
Celery leaf plus a drop of soy sauce. The leaf gives the direction, the sauce the savoury pull.
Season at the end. Soy sauce brings its own salt and the soup tips over fast.
Vorsichtcareful
It really does dominate. One leaf per pot, not a handful.
Measure it like parsley and lovage is all you taste afterwards. Meat, vegetables and broth all disappear behind it.