A slice of bread thickly spread with pale goose fat on a black plate

IngredientsDairy & fat

Gänseschmalzgoose fat

Rendered goose fat. It stays softer than lard: in the fridge it stays spreadable instead of going hard.

It is both a spread and a frying fat: on bread with salt, and in the pan when potatoes or cabbage need to taste of something.

Geschmacktaste

Mild, a little sweet, clearly of poultry. In Germany it belongs to goose season, November and December.

It is usually sold with apple and onion rendered into it. That is the taste people remember.

Ersatzwhat to use

Melt manteca de cerdo slowly and add a peeled tart apple in cubes, an onion in cubes and a little marjoram.

Keep it on low heat until apple and onion turn golden, strain it or pot it with the bits in, then chill. It is not goose, but it lands close.

Kaufenwhere to buy

Goose fat is not sold in Mexico. Duck fat turns up now and then at City Market and is the nearest relative.

If you roast a whole duck or goose, keep the fat from the tin. Strained and chilled it holds for weeks.